Once upon a time, we went for a Christmas holiday to Malta instead of the well-known Antalya. There are a few winter climbing areas, so a cheap direct flight to the island was crucial in decision-making. So we turned up in this tiny, insular country with more than 500 routes, including overseas multi pitches. Without any polished holds in solitary sectors.
We rented 3-bedroom flat for our team in Mellieha - nice town with old church and square in behind where one can drink coffee or eat something enjoying a nice view. Next to us was a family park with running track, training apparatuses, book box, children swings, barbeque area and a few trees.
We hadn't seen all these nice places at once because we were searching for a guidebook in different bookshops. A few days later we saw it in the nearest supermarket, where we bought all the souvenirs: round cheese in spices, carob syrup, cactus liqueur, honey, halva, local beer and wine. Guidebook isn’t complete, so you better additionally check information about routes in Malta climbing club. They responded quickly.
It was the closest sector for us and the best in Malta, IMHO. It is marked as an Open cave on Google Maps. Here grots have pretty featured roofs with routes graded starting from 7a on them. Not too common characteristic for climbing areas. There is a 50-meter roof on Gozo with 8b+ route King of Kings. Unfortunately, we didn’t manage to see it because of its remoteness, and the need to abseil that isn't the best option with kids.
You can’t see Mellieha Cave until you come very close to it. I saw it when Andrew appeared over the ground, being on the top of sole and not so easy 6a+ in the cave.
Routes:
There were routes I wanted to climb on Malta (Crazy Monkey 7a & Caveman 7c). I would recommend them to everyone who likes brutal overhanging. One needs power endurance for them.
The most warming-up route is 6b The Harpist. Other 6-graded routes were too bouldery for me. For example, 6b+ Bubu Chungo has a little roof. Guys liked “bimba”-route Shaman 7c+. It became the first such grade route for Dima. Nearby route Hidden Angel 7c seemed much harder. We were wondering about its place in list of must to climb routes. Initially graded 8b+ November Rain seemed to Misha not more than 8a+. Magnificent route but with some losing rocks.
This sector easily reaches by buses as we did last week, when Kostya worked from his field office and we left without car.
The most popular rock areas located in the southern east of Malta. These areas are Ghar Lapsi with 4 caves and Wied Babu with a cave and walls. Last one has the most scenic approach on bottom of the george through arcs from leaves and on stone bridges. The trail to sector begins against parking spot: one should climb over the railing where steps are. Both these areas are sunny and protected from northern wind. It’s a perfect place for winter climbing.
Sectors are situated just above sea trail and rocky beaches. Parking place is near restaurants with appropriate toilets, tasty coffee and view. Approach takes no more than 5 minutes.
We climbed in Terry's and McCartny's Caves. I spent a lot of time on 7a+ First on the Bus - very bouldery route, so many others routes left untouched for me. I tried popular 7a Wot’s in it for me? and didn’t reach hold from one-finger pocket at the crux. I couldn’t figure out my way through it. But our guys liked it much due to “soft” holds and pleasant climbing.
My recommendation:
Area is located next to Blue Grotto. You should walk 200 meters from the parking place to see this astonishing feature. We climbed at Smoothies Cave. It’s the most fragile rock. Routes here are really hard to clean. There are no stational carabiners or rapids.
My recommendation:
I liked 7b Banana Rainbow that consists of easy first part follows then with easy roof (I climbed it onsight) with crux near the top. It’s hard to hangdog as I must pull up the rope after every fall. I wish I had climbed it.
Malta has exceptional sights density. I liked old and well preserved fortress cities: Valletta, Mdina and Victoria(Gozo) and coastal cliffs: Blue Grotto, Dingli Cliffs and cliffs near Internal sea on Gozo. Salt pans on Gozo were impressive too. But we didn’t have enough time to look through even one fifth of beautiful place on these historical islands.
We used two-decker “Hop on-Hop off” to see Gozo. The bus was racing at astonishing speed through narrow streets, and we could touch balkons. It’s appropriate way to visit all major sights on Gozo in one go without car. You should bargain and buy tickets from the driver of the bus. The price can be no more than 10 euro.
Only admiration has left from climbing. It’s worth mentioning the convenience of compact placement of anything on these islands. Would I go there again? I would. I especially want to climb on Gozo. For me there are many interesting and untouched routes left in these sectors. Those who favor verticals find many routes too.
Be aware on belaying. Anchors tend to unscrew here. One anchor with two quickdraws in it(stational and mine) fell when I was dropping the rope. Dima’s quickdraw carabiner was broken because of unscrewing anchor.
And enormous thanks to Grandfather, who gave us the opportunity to climb all the time!
One-way flight — 100$.
Apartment — 12-15 euro per person per night.
Rent a car (aquarius in our case) — 16 euro per day.
Bus — 1,5 euro for 2 hours (weekly and month cards available at airport but in buses).
Mobile internet — 10 euro for 2 gbyte for 4 weeks.
Ferry — 4,65 euro for two-way ticket or 15 euro for two-way ticket for car with a driver.
Local wine — 3,5 euro per bottle.
Cappuccino — 1,5 euro.
Pizza — 9-15 euro.
Malta was a British colony, so English is official language and cars are left-wheeled here.
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| Shaman 7c+, Millieha Cave, Malta |
We rented 3-bedroom flat for our team in Mellieha - nice town with old church and square in behind where one can drink coffee or eat something enjoying a nice view. Next to us was a family park with running track, training apparatuses, book box, children swings, barbeque area and a few trees.
We hadn't seen all these nice places at once because we were searching for a guidebook in different bookshops. A few days later we saw it in the nearest supermarket, where we bought all the souvenirs: round cheese in spices, carob syrup, cactus liqueur, honey, halva, local beer and wine. Guidebook isn’t complete, so you better additionally check information about routes in Malta climbing club. They responded quickly.
Mellieha Cave
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| Millieha Cave, Malta |
It was the closest sector for us and the best in Malta, IMHO. It is marked as an Open cave on Google Maps. Here grots have pretty featured roofs with routes graded starting from 7a on them. Not too common characteristic for climbing areas. There is a 50-meter roof on Gozo with 8b+ route King of Kings. Unfortunately, we didn’t manage to see it because of its remoteness, and the need to abseil that isn't the best option with kids.
You can’t see Mellieha Cave until you come very close to it. I saw it when Andrew appeared over the ground, being on the top of sole and not so easy 6a+ in the cave.
Routes:
There were routes I wanted to climb on Malta (Crazy Monkey 7a & Caveman 7c). I would recommend them to everyone who likes brutal overhanging. One needs power endurance for them.
The most warming-up route is 6b The Harpist. Other 6-graded routes were too bouldery for me. For example, 6b+ Bubu Chungo has a little roof. Guys liked “bimba”-route Shaman 7c+. It became the first such grade route for Dima. Nearby route Hidden Angel 7c seemed much harder. We were wondering about its place in list of must to climb routes. Initially graded 8b+ November Rain seemed to Misha not more than 8a+. Magnificent route but with some losing rocks.
 |
| Field office over the cave |
This sector easily reaches by buses as we did last week, when Kostya worked from his field office and we left without car.
South of Malta
The most popular rock areas located in the southern east of Malta. These areas are Ghar Lapsi with 4 caves and Wied Babu with a cave and walls. Last one has the most scenic approach on bottom of the george through arcs from leaves and on stone bridges. The trail to sector begins against parking spot: one should climb over the railing where steps are. Both these areas are sunny and protected from northern wind. It’s a perfect place for winter climbing.
Ghar Lapsi
We climbed in Terry's and McCartny's Caves. I spent a lot of time on 7a+ First on the Bus - very bouldery route, so many others routes left untouched for me. I tried popular 7a Wot’s in it for me? and didn’t reach hold from one-finger pocket at the crux. I couldn’t figure out my way through it. But our guys liked it much due to “soft” holds and pleasant climbing.
My recommendation:
- 6b First on the Bus Granny's Seat.
- 7c Dancing on the Moon — fantastic viewed bouldering on the tufas.
- 7b Blood Meridian Direct — plenty of tufas and “little” roof.
- 7b Just like nothing on Earth isn’t too overhanging with crimpy crux. Tanya liked it much and did it on 4th go.
Wied Babu
Area is located next to Blue Grotto. You should walk 200 meters from the parking place to see this astonishing feature. We climbed at Smoothies Cave. It’s the most fragile rock. Routes here are really hard to clean. There are no stational carabiners or rapids.
My recommendation:
- 6c+ Cherry Buzz
- 7c Muesli Yoga
I liked 7b Banana Rainbow that consists of easy first part follows then with easy roof (I climbed it onsight) with crux near the top. It’s hard to hangdog as I must pull up the rope after every fall. I wish I had climbed it.
Rest days
Malta has exceptional sights density. I liked old and well preserved fortress cities: Valletta, Mdina and Victoria(Gozo) and coastal cliffs: Blue Grotto, Dingli Cliffs and cliffs near Internal sea on Gozo. Salt pans on Gozo were impressive too. But we didn’t have enough time to look through even one fifth of beautiful place on these historical islands.
 |
| Valletta |
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| Mdina |
We used two-decker “Hop on-Hop off” to see Gozo. The bus was racing at astonishing speed through narrow streets, and we could touch balkons. It’s appropriate way to visit all major sights on Gozo in one go without car. You should bargain and buy tickets from the driver of the bus. The price can be no more than 10 euro.
Conclusion
Only admiration has left from climbing. It’s worth mentioning the convenience of compact placement of anything on these islands. Would I go there again? I would. I especially want to climb on Gozo. For me there are many interesting and untouched routes left in these sectors. Those who favor verticals find many routes too.
Be aware on belaying. Anchors tend to unscrew here. One anchor with two quickdraws in it(stational and mine) fell when I was dropping the rope. Dima’s quickdraw carabiner was broken because of unscrewing anchor.
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| Route "improvement" |
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| The captain is planning the trip. |
Estimated prices:
One-way flight — 100$.
Apartment — 12-15 euro per person per night.
Rent a car (aquarius in our case) — 16 euro per day.
Bus — 1,5 euro for 2 hours (weekly and month cards available at airport but in buses).
Mobile internet — 10 euro for 2 gbyte for 4 weeks.
Ferry — 4,65 euro for two-way ticket or 15 euro for two-way ticket for car with a driver.
Local wine — 3,5 euro per bottle.
Cappuccino — 1,5 euro.
Pizza — 9-15 euro.
Malta was a British colony, so English is official language and cars are left-wheeled here.
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