Thursday 26 September 2024

Austria freind trip

 This weekend, climbing was something special for us because of our friend, Natalka from Kyiv, whom we took with us. Furthermore, we finally found those picturesque mellows with blocks and cows, which are associated with climbing in Zillertal.

This weekend we bouldered in Zillergrund and Sundergrund.

The road through the narrow and somewhat cozy valley to the right of Mayhofer costs 10 euros. But parking is free there. And there is a nice Gasthof Au where one can sleep in a car or in a tent for only 10 euros, and kids are free of charge. It's very nice in the reality of Austria. 
In Gasthof Au

Zillergrund is located on a steep hill in a forest. There is my favorite project for now: Krokodil 6c, the very classics of the area.


Kostya has a pretty hard project there as well - the beginning of this: Hole Run 7b


The approach to first blocks of Zillgrund is very short - just across the road from one of two parking. However, it's steep.

The approach to Sundergrund is about 25 minutes of hiking up. It offers lots of air, views, and cows, as well as many very popular boulders. And it's really kids-freindly. It is one of them: Sweatheart 6a+


Another one: Richis Luder - a very long 6b. I just hadn't enough power to get through the middle and the most sloppery part of it.


The road to Sundergrund


Wednesday 18 September 2024

Val di Sadole, Ziano di Fiemme: first meeting

We discovered another interesting and actually much more kids-friendly boulder area in less than two hours of driving from us. It has two names: Val di Sadole or Ziano di Fiemme. There are two free guidebooks for the area: in German and Italian. It's more summer area, so we were freezing cold there and the session was very shot; however, the friction was excellent.

It is mostly bouldering on holes of different sizes. We stopped at the 3 and 4 boulders in the sector Malga. There were plenty of warming-up routes without an exact grade. We climbed a couple and decided that they were somewhat about 5b. 

Then it was 6a with a controversial and not-so-easy start. I did the start first but then fell. 


I tried another 6a several times, but then Kostya discovered in the guidebook new lines on boulder 4, which we'd missed and so I tried the start of nice 7a. Then I tried another 6a and it was time to hurry up to our van because of the school tomorrow. 

It was charming day after a night almost without sleeping. There were so many fellings inside me boiling. And I was angry and disappointed that I couldn't sleep before a day of bouldering outside. That I wouldn't be able to do anything and to enjoy our climbing day. But everything was put together and I did enjoyed the day. We even played with snow a little bit.