Friday 25 October 2024

Tribute to my dad

 We did a little hiking in Pfitschtal. There were plenty of mushrooms. I thought of my father, of how he would enjoy such a walk and how many mushrooms he would collect. Before the car incident, before his illness, in another life.

It will never happen, it would have never happened. But it was one of my most treasured childhood dreams: to go with him into the forest. 

Now I almost live in a forest, just 10 minutes walk away. And still, I live in a town. It is really wonderful. And for my children, forest is something so regular like almost boring. It isn’t so fascinating for them as it was for me back then. True desires can wait until their time comes.






Saturday 19 October 2024

Meran, kids, ice cream

 Last weekend we were near sunny Meran, but with kids it was messy. It was tough to get up early in the morning and get ready for our trip after the whole week of getting ready for school. It would be really nice if there was someone who did all that work while we could relax in the morning. But parenting has no days off.

Meran was sunny. Boulders were really nice in that part of Algund (Kneodelman). Kids were messy and attention-seeking. And it was like it was: some nice climbing. I liked 5c Rundgand around low boulder. I did the move I thought was to reach for me at another 6a N.N. Kostya worked on 2-moves 7b+/7c. A little bit of walking and ice cream at the end. We could call it a day.








Thursday 10 October 2024

Mountaing rescue in South Tirol: my introduction

 Despite I didn't climb this weekend at all, it was dedicated to climbing, a climbing instructor career, to be exact. I took a 2-day-long First Aid training, which is obligatory for climbing instructors.

On the first day, we were at South Tyrol Alpine Association Mountain Rescue Service in Vilpian. It's a learning center for all rescue workers in South Tirol and it's actually unique for the entire Italy. There are different stations to train firefighters and rescuers in various situations, such as in pictures and many more.


The second day, we spent in Tramin at the small climbing area of Altenburg with an astonishing view, where we trained rescue works at crags, as well as different bandaging techniques.
Some key moments of first aid training:

  • They try to go minimalistic and do everything possible with just a bandage and a rescue blanket. The last one is really useful and has a wide range of applications, from actually keeping warm (for an injured person, it's important even when it's hot) to transporting and replacing sunglasses. 
  • The number of allergy cases is constantly increasing, and they could be really dangerous and life-threatening without proper medication. In our study case, we met a guy who was sitting on the ground because of dizziness, scratching himself all around. He also said his teeth felt weird. It is a situation to call for rescue, despite it does not seem so dangerous. It's all the symptoms of angioedema or allergic edema. When things are getting really bad, epinephrine autoinjection could be life-saving. Also, only a person themself, a doctor or a nurse are allowed to give a shot.
  • Israeli bandage is the most convenient way of applying pressure to a wound. It also goes one-handed.






Tuesday 1 October 2024

I am a fighter


 This weekend was homely and cozy. We climbed at our local facilities. First day, it was bouldering in our hard-core long-term-projecting boulder gym in Wiesen. The second day we climbed in Stange for the first time. It's a rather small wall for climbing mostly toprope. And I remembered why I love climbing routes so much. I can often really give it all on a go. It becomes a real fight and I like this state of mind the most.

I'm just a fighter, a f*cking fighter. 

That's all.

And we stocked up on firewood last week.



Thursday 26 September 2024

Austria freind trip

 This weekend, climbing was something special for us because of our friend, Natalka from Kyiv, whom we took with us. Furthermore, we finally found those picturesque mellows with blocks and cows, which are associated with climbing in Zillertal.

This weekend we bouldered in Zillergrund and Sundergrund.

The road through the narrow and somewhat cozy valley to the right of Mayhofer costs 10 euros. But parking is free there. And there is a nice Gasthof Au where one can sleep in a car or in a tent for only 10 euros, and kids are free of charge. It's very nice in the reality of Austria. 
In Gasthof Au

Zillergrund is located on a steep hill in a forest. There is my favorite project for now: Krokodil 6c, the very classics of the area.


Kostya has a pretty hard project there as well - the beginning of this: Hole Run 7b


The approach to first blocks of Zillgrund is very short - just across the road from one of two parking. However, it's steep.

The approach to Sundergrund is about 25 minutes of hiking up. It offers lots of air, views, and cows, as well as many very popular boulders. And it's really kids-freindly. It is one of them: Sweatheart 6a+


Another one: Richis Luder - a very long 6b. I just hadn't enough power to get through the middle and the most sloppery part of it.


The road to Sundergrund


Wednesday 18 September 2024

Val di Sadole, Ziano di Fiemme: first meeting

We discovered another interesting and actually much more kids-friendly boulder area in less than two hours of driving from us. It has two names: Val di Sadole or Ziano di Fiemme. There are two free guidebooks for the area: in German and Italian. It's more summer area, so we were freezing cold there and the session was very shot; however, the friction was excellent.

It is mostly bouldering on holes of different sizes. We stopped at the 3 and 4 boulders in the sector Malga. There were plenty of warming-up routes without an exact grade. We climbed a couple and decided that they were somewhat about 5b. 

Then it was 6a with a controversial and not-so-easy start. I did the start first but then fell. 


I tried another 6a several times, but then Kostya discovered in the guidebook new lines on boulder 4, which we'd missed and so I tried the start of nice 7a. Then I tried another 6a and it was time to hurry up to our van because of the school tomorrow. 

It was charming day after a night almost without sleeping. There were so many fellings inside me boiling. And I was angry and disappointed that I couldn't sleep before a day of bouldering outside. That I wouldn't be able to do anything and to enjoy our climbing day. But everything was put together and I did enjoyed the day. We even played with snow a little bit.





Tuesday 13 August 2024

Once upon a time, I used to create chaos in my life on my own

There actually was a time I used to create chaos in my life on my own. And I was good at it. I am not alone now. I love climbing and I love my children and that increases the degree of chaos significantly. Every visit to a gym or a climbing area has become a quest. Our nearest gym isn't a modern venue but rather is a kind of Tyrolean keller with an astonishing mountain view. One has to be really psyched to train there. And I like it. I like its long-term projects and the loneliness of climbing alone, but now there are at least two of us in the gym every time I climb. 


Once upon a time during holidays, I came there with two kids being already tired and hungry, trying to calm them both down. At this point, it seems to me that I am not able to want anything. But once I start climbing I get that feeling that outweighs all efforts to get there. Even if in the end it is not so much of climbing. 


And it also happens that I can come early in the morning only with the baby who calmly plays or stays on the soft mat near a soft cube. And I have all time in the world for climbing but I am almost blacking out due to the lack of sleep. So I climb, a little bit, just to move around and get on going. Just to not injure myself, which is my priority.


Sometimes it feels like climbing. You leisurely have breakfast and get ready. Then you convince your primary schooler that today is your turn to have fun and you want to go to the gym. When you get there, he goes to the playground. The baby falls asleep for a while, and you climb your 6c project, which actually is a big deal in the gym with a year-long lasting route setting. 


The long story short, the focus is the key that helps navigate in this chaos. As well as, avoiding unnecessary pressure. I failed the last with the first baby. I felt like I had to train whenever I had a free minute. Then I felt like I didn’t want anything at all. Then I got tired, injured, sick and didn’t want anything even more. I drank a lot of coffee with treats to replenish my battery but it didn’t work. I need something more complicated and fulfilling in order to do so. Now I try to find my balance in a greater degree of chaos. And I’ve become better at it.


Here are some tips on how to climb with kids:


  1. Keep the main focus, which should shrink to one thing, climbing a little bit and seeing how it goes.

  2. Have a plan for what to do, especially for warming up. It’s tempting to skip this part, but you can also consider it as a part of training with some specific focus and some exercises. The key is to stay injury-free as best as you can. It’s easy to follow some structure when you get constantly distracted and your inner voice is overwhelmed with all the screams and cries from the outside.

  3. It’s better to pack your things beforehand. It’s better to pack your things at all. You can climb without chalk because there are plenty of it on holds. You can climb even without your climbing shoes, turning it into the practice of arm-climbing or mastering your technique.

  4. Don’t forget to pack snacks and toys for kids. It’s even more important. However, you can turn anything into a toy: a chalk bag, a climbing shoe, some training equipment etc.

  5. You can go on with whatever you haven’t forgotten to pack. 

  6. Choose a time when there is no one in the gym or cooperate with your friends or other parents. 

  7. Don’t be upset when nothing is going according to your plan. Maybe you just need a little more rest. Don’t  push yourself, Actually, it is the time when we become stronger!